Matthew M. Williams almost brought the world to his door. The American fashion designer held the Givenchy Spring/Summer 2024 show at the Hotel des People with disabilities, just a short distance from his neighborhood. A collection that returned to the roots of structure and silhouette was the ideal location for a set. Designers like Williams are returning to traditional tailoring with a contemporary twist, eschewing logomania.
The fact that the show was held at a historic military monument was not by accident. Williams talked about his inspiration for the collection in a press interview after the show. He said that his surroundings and his children’s British school uniforms inspired him to focus on a utilitarian and uniform aesthetic for this season. The ever-evolving male archetype is the subject of SS24’s ongoing exploration. Williams draws inspiration from the ideals that truly make the Givenchy house great when he looks back at traditional house motifs. He said, “I believe that is why is Givenchy delightful. It appeals to a wide range of ages and genders. When all of the products are taken together, they may appeal to many different people.
The meaning of the traditional gentle person wardrobe has changed as the silhouette of men’s clothing has changed over time. Williams is redefining the well-tailored silhouette with Givenchy. Bringing his well-known street wear elements into traditional dress codes, the designer refers to it as a “natural process.” The collection features trousers, sweatshirts, fitted polo, crested knits, technical vests, and wide-legged cargo pants that recontextualize the male uniform. The collection’s main themes are adaptability and functionality, and layering becomes a big part of what makes the pieces work. It is evident that tailoring is intricately and meticulously applied to details, taking traditional tropes like the Eisenhower military jacket to redefine the modern masculine blazer. With their mix of materials, accessories like suede, nylon, and webbing technical bags give a functional piece an elegant look.